Blackheads and Enlarged Pores

Porefection

Concern with pore size is practically a national obsession. No doubt this is provoked by inescapable multimedia images of glamorous faces airbrushed to impossibly unattainable perfection. This skewed perception of how skin should look is as realistic as the Barbie doll's similarity to true female anatomy. The truth is that pores are a fact of life. They aren't invisible and everyone has them. But not everyone knows how best to minimize pores' appearance.

Porely Designed

Pores play a vital role in skin physiology. After all, without them we'd have nowhere for hair to grow out of, no method for skin oils to reach the surface, protecting skin from environmental dehydration.

Technically speaking, the pore is little more than the opening of the hair follicle onto the surface of the skin. The source of the hair follicle lies deep within the dermis. Midway up the dermal layer, the sebaceous oil gland empties into the hair follicle. Both skin oil (sebum) and the hair breach the surface through this tiny aperture. Wherever there is a hair, there will be a pore.

Larger Than Life

Why do pores appear larger than life? Anything that attracts attention or expands their natural architecture magnifies their appearance. These can be dealt with. However, the closer you look in the mirror, the larger those pores are going to appear. If you have a habit of examining your skin in the magnifying side of your beauty mirror, perhaps it isn't really your best friend. So put it aside and address these factors that really do play havoc with your pores.

• Genetics may certainly be to blame. Barely visible on those prone to drier skin, individuals with oily, thicker (glabrous) skin tend to have larger looking, more noticeable pores. This is often hereditary.
• Sun damage is another cause. As we age, one of the ways sun damage affects the skin is through the enlargement of the pores. Sun damage and aging cause the epidermis to thicken and a rim of cells are more likely to collect around individual pores. While microscopic, these rings exaggerate pore diameter.
• Pores may be more visible simply due to lack of good skin grooming and poor exfoliation. Too much surface oil and remnant naturally shed skin cells can collect around the edges of pores, creating the illusion of the pores being larger than they really are.
• Blackheads and enlarged pores often go hand-in-hand. Blackheads can either expand pores or simply focus attention on them. But pores can appear larger than life for many reasons, blackheads being but one of them.

Film Noir

Pores are a natural part of the skin; blackheads are the superficial plugs that may form within them. Pore dilatation begins with faulty exfoliation of cells lining the interior gland - cells are too "sticky" leading to microscopic plugs.

Sebaceous glands continue to produce sebum that accumulates behind the plug. Protracted pooling of skin oils serves to both nourishes bacteria (like P. acnes and S. epidermidis).

Dead skin cells, oils and bacteria choke the follicular opening, expanding the diameter of the pore. Blackheads - medically termed "open comedones" - are an all too common outcome. Plugs within the pores composed of sebum, cellular debris and bacteria congest the gland and expand the pore. Contact with air allows oxygenation to take place, turning the plugs black, further heightening visibility.

In Search Of Porefection

An inordinate amount of time seems to be devoted to facials and extractions. Certainly well performed "physical" exfoliation can indeed cleanse cellular matter caught beneath the surface. But poorly executed, glands can be ruptured contributing to sudden acne flare-ups. What they don't do however is tackle those other contributing causes of large-looking pores. Chemical based treatments can often succeed in solving multiple issues. Sometimes a strategic combination produces the best results. Targeting the key factors that cause exaggerated pore diameter quickly minimize visibility.

• Unplugging debris
• Eliminating bacteria
• Reducing excessive oiliness
• Removing blackheads
• Smooth out the edges
• Reduce sun damage
• Draw the pores closed

Pore Performers

So you know what needs to be done, but how to accomplish the goal? These are the how's and why's of pore minimizing performers:

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic Acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in grains like wheat, rye and barley. Azelaic acid has been shown in lab studies to possess antibacterial activity against common skin bacteria Proprionobacterium acnes (P. acnes) and Staphylococcus epidermidis (S. epidermidis). As shown by electron microscopic and routine histopathology evidence of patients enrolled in Azelex Cream studies, azeleic acid appears to be an effective means of reducing microcomedone formation. Azeleic acid can be found in prescription Azelex Cream and Finacea.

Topical Vitamin A Treatments

There are a myriad of prescription medications in this category: Retin A, Retin-A Micro Gel, Tazorac, Avita and Differin. Renova and Avage are their skin rejuvenating counterparts and also work to help as potent pore minimizers. We are very lucky here in the Baja, we can purchase over the counter in any pharmacy Retin A for only $4-$5 USD or you may purchase it in our office.

Topical Vitamin A treatments work by normalizing the keratinization process. They help prevent the cells lining the gland from sticking together, promoting more effective exfoliation. Used on blackheads, they work to loosen the plug as well as chemically "peel" the rim of the pore - ideally all without seeing flaking skin or irritation.

Use any of these treatments sparingly, every other night and wait 30 minutes after washing before application. All increase sun sensitivity (meaning don't forget your SPF 30 during the day) and none should be used while pregnant or nursing.

AHAs & BHA

As far back as Cleopatra, alpha hydroxy acids have been used in skin care. Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) is a blanket term for a variety of fruit acids including Glycolic, Citric, Lactic, Malic and Tartaric. AHAs help disintegrate the "glue" that hold dead, dry skin cells to the surface of the skin. By doing so, the epidermis is exfoliated leaving a silky texture. Removal of this external barrier enables easier, deeper penetration of other skin treatments as well.

BHA (beta hydroxy acid) is the trendy term for salicylic acid, a natural acid derived from willow bark, wintergreen leaves, and sweet birch bark. It also works to exfoliate cellular debris and unplug pores. It's a golden oldie effective ingredient often used in dermatology for acne therapy. We use these acids depending on the skin type during our chemical peel facials to help amplify chemical exfoliation.

Oil Reduction

Granted not everyone looking to minimize the appearance of their pores has an issue with oiliness. But if so, or if blackheads are an issue, reducing excessive surface skin oils helps reduce build-up and pore plugging which contributes to pore visibility. Clear skin Phase 18 helps absorb oils and mattifies without drying out the skin. This makes it the perfect option no matter what skin type is being treated.

Those plagued by extreme oiliness may find that washing with PCA oily skin wash phase 1 or the PCA blemish bar once or twice a day, followed by the application of PCA smoothing toner and then ClearSkin phase 18 is highly beneficial. If using a topical Vitamin A therapy every other night, such as Retin A Gel, severe oiliness is rapidly controlled.

Laser Genesis

Laser Genesis applies laser technology to treat enlarged pores as well as scars, redness and fine line wrinkles. The Laser Genesis is used mainly on the face and neck, but may also be used to treat recent scars on other parts of the body.

The laser shrinks back the sebaceous gland causing a reduction in the pore size.

The pulses of light are absorbed by tiny blood vessels in the skin. This stimulates cells called fibroblasts, which triggers the formation of natural collagen within your body.

The laser treatment is actually very relaxing and therapeutic. The Laser Technician will move the handpiece back and forth approximately a half inch above your skin. This creates a warming sensation, while stimulating the collagen production of your skin. No gels are used, just simply the laser itself. There is no recovery time and your skin will have a beautiful glow. The final results from each treatment, is seen within 21 days. A series of 6 treatments performed once every three to four weeks is recommended for best results.

This type of laser therapy will restore a healthy glow to your skin, by smoothening out uneven textures caused by aging, the sun or scars. Large pores will be reduced and minor imperfections will disappear.

Picture Porefect

Thinking about trying to get skin like that model on the latest beauty magazine cover? Forget it - she doesn't have that skin either! Don't let Nature determine your skin type. Follow the guidelines and let your skin be a vision of porefection.

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