What’s Inside My Jar will look at ingredients Inside Your Cosmetic Products
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
To learn the basics of understanding the ingredient list, read the articles in our ingredient guide.
A --Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Acetate: an acetic acid salt; the word that follows or precedes acetate on an ingredient list determines the function.
Acetone: solvent commonly used in fingernail polish removers and toners; can be drying and irritating depending on concentration.
Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol: An alcohol that is not drying. Helps soften skin; is highly comedogenic (causes blackheads and/or whiteheads).
Acrylates Copolymer: active ingredient in an oil-absorbing gel, such as Clinac O.C.
Acrylates/Octylpropenamide Copolymer: creates a water-repelling base/matrix for cosmetics claiming water-proof properties.
Alcohol SD-40: sometimes listed as SD Alcohol 40 and synomymous with alcohol SDA-40, it is a high grade purified cosmetic alcohol. Evaporates instantly, so it is used as a vehicle to transport important ingredients to the skin's surface and then leave them there; gentler to the skin than ethyl (rubbing) alcohol. May help kill bacteria.
Algae/Seaweed Extract: an emollient, restoring moisture content to skin; claims to have antioxidant properties.
Allantoin: a botanical thought to have skin calming properties; possibly reduces irritation.
Alpha Hydroxy Acid: an active ingredient derived from fruit acids. Helps exfoliate the top layers of the epidermis: promotes moisture restoration and helps penetration of other ingredients; highly sought after for use in anti-aging and bleaching skin care products. May irritate the skin especially if overused. Buffering the pH helps make them less irritating to the skin, but also reduces exfoliating effect. AHA's include: citric acid (citrus fruits), glycolic acid (sugar cane), lactic acid (milk), and the less common AHAs used in cosmetics malic acid (apples) and tartaric acid (wine). AHAs increase sun sensitivity due to their exfoliant behavior.
Alpha Lipoic Acid: an antioxidant; is both water and fat soluble so it can protect many areas of a cell. Also, has anti-inflammatory properties.
As a supplement Alpha-Lipoic Acid. A powerful antioxidant, hundreds of times more potent that either vitamin C or E, alpha-lipoic acid may turn out to be a super boost for aging skin. What makes it so special, say skin experts, is its ability to penetrate both oil and water, affecting skin cells from both the inside and the outside of the body. Most other antioxidants can do one but not both.
More specifically, explains Mary Sullivan, RN, alpha-lipoic acid helps neutralize skin cell damage caused by free radicals, much like vitamins C and E do. In one study conducted at Yale University and published in the Archives of Gerontology and Geriatrics in 1999, researchers found that alpha-lipoic acid protected proteins against damage by free radicals. Sullivan says it also helps other vitamins work more effectively to rebuild skin cells damaged by environmental assaults, such as smoke and pollution. Alpha-lipoic acid is available in supplements or in creams.
Alum: usually in crystal or powder form; has strong astringent properties; used in stypic sticks, popular with men who often nick themselves shaving.
Ascorbic Acid: vitamin C; an antioxidant and stimulant of collagen synthesis by skin cells (fibroblasts). Can also have skin lightening effect in certain preparations. Only L-ascorbic acid (as opposed to D-ascorbic acid) is effective. My favorite Vitamin C topical is Obaji Available here in the Spa.
Ascorbyl Palmitate: fat-soluble vitamin C derivative. Good antioxidant but less effective than vitamin C for stimulating collagen synthesis.
Avobenzone: UV radiation blocker used in sunscreens. Also, sold under brands Parsol, Eusolex, and Escalol
B --Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Beeswax: waxy component in many skin care products; provides moisture as well as a barrier mechanism. Also, an emulsifier (helps oil and water blending). May be mildly comedogenic.
Bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S): UV radiation blocker used in sunscreens
Benzalkonium chloride: Preservative; may occasionally cause allergy or sensitivity with continuous use.
Benzethonium chloride: Preservative against broad spectrum of microorganisms (fungi, bacteria, algae). Typically used in concentrations under 0.5%.
Benzoic acid: Preservative against growth of microorganisms; effective against fungi but only marginally useful against bacteria. Typically used in concentrations from 0.05 to 0.1%. Sensitivity to benzoic acid is rare but possible.
Benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone), benzophenone-4 (sulisobenzone) UV radiation blockers used in sunscreens
Benzoyl Peroxide: antibacterial agent that kills P. acnes, the germ responsible for acne breakouts. Can be drying and/or irritating. Some develop high skin sensitivity to benzoyl peroxide. Available in both prescription and OTC forms ranging from 2.5 to 10%. This is one of the ingredients in Indoxly the gel I most commonly prescribe for patients with acne.
Benzyl alcohol: Antibacterial preservative typically used in concentrations 1 to 3%. May cause skin irritation.
Beta Hydroxy Acid: a subclass of organic acids; the most common one is salicylic acid, a long term ingredient used for exfoliation of dry skin as well as for acne therapy.
BHT: Potent synthetic oil-soluble antioxidant often used as a preservative against rancidity.
Bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M): UV radiation blocker used in sunscreens (see bisoctrizole fact-sheet)
Boric Acid: an antiseptic used as a preservative to prevent yeast overgrowth. May be irritating.
C --Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Caffeine: used to alleviate puffiness under eyes.
Camphor: a cooling agent; may help alleviate the symptoms of itching and irritation.
Carbomers (934, 940, 941, 980, 981): stabilizers and thickeners common in skin care products.
Carmine: red pigment; found in many mascaras; can be irritating.
Cellulose: polymer from plant cell walls; used as a thickener and emulsifier.
Ceramides: epidermal hydrating agent; expensive due to scarcity.
Ceteareth: cetearyl and stearyl alcohols combined for use as a lubricant.
Cetyl Alcohol: lubricant and emulsifier. Nonirritating, nondrying, noncomedogenic.
Cocoa butter: Vegetable fat solid at room temperature but liquid at body temperature. Due to this property often used in lip balms and massage creams. Considered comedogenic and may also (rarely) cause allergy.
Collagen: the main supporting fiber located within the dermis, gives strength and provides structure. You cannot replace lost collagen by simply applying it to your skin due to its large molecule size. However, topical collagen can act as a moisturizing agent.
Cyclic Acid: a new term for Hyaluronic Acid, an effective humectant/moisturizing agent. This ingredient is found in the HydroPeptide Line and April Rain Lines
Cyclomethicone: form of silicone; gives products a smooth texture; noncomedogenic
D -- Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Dimethicone: a form of silicone; skin protectant; moisture sealant; noncomedogenic; has been used in some scar therapies.
E --Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Ecamsule: UV radiation blocker used in sunscreens
EDTA: preservative; slows down degradation (e.g. oxidation) of ingredients by chelating (grabbing and shielding) catalytic trace metals; may cause contact dermatitis.
Elastin: a fiber within the dermis similar to collagen, gives support and "snap" to the skin. In topicals, it cannot penetrate the skin, but does have moisturizing effect.
Ellagic Acid: naturally occurring ingredient; helps inhibit the formation of sun and age spots.
Ensulizole: UV radiation blocker used in sunscreens
As a supplement Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs). If your skin is dry, prone to inflammation, and frequently dotted with white heads and black heads, you may be lacking essential fatty acids, nutrients that are crucial to the production of skin's natural oil barrier. Without an adequate supply of EFAs, the skin produces a more irritating form of sebum, or oil, which can result in problems.
The solution, says Sullivan, may be to balance two of the key EFAs, omega-3 and omega-6. While most folks get plenty of omega-6s (in baked goods, cooking oils, poultry, grains, and many other foods), omega-3s are often lacking. They're found mostly in cold-water fish, including salmon, sardines, and mackerel, flaxseed, and flax and safflower oils. Taking supplements, such as fish oil capsules or evening primrose oil, may also help keep your skin smoother and younger-looking.
Ethyl Alcohol: aka rubbing alcohol or ethanol; has antibacterial activity; usually too strong for regular use in cosmetics; very drying at high concentrations; sometimes used in astringents and toners. Use moisturizer after using anything with ethanol.
F -- Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
FD&C Dyes and Colors: dyes approved by FDA for food, drug, and cosmetic use.
Fragrance: an aromatic blend of natural essential oils and/or synthetic fragrance substances.
Free Radical Scavengers: another term for antioxidants.
G -- Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Glycerin: hydrates and provides a skin barrier against loss of moisure; allows topical agents to go on very smoothly; may clog pores when present in high concentrations.
Glycine: amino acid vital to collagen synthesis; it is unclear if applying glycine topically affects collagen synthesis.
Glycogen: natural sugar (glucose) based polymer somewhat similar to starch; acts as a conditioner.
Glycosaminoglycans (and) Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate: a blend that acts to inhibit the matrix metalloproteinase enzymes that degrade and destroy the skin’s collagen network. Protecting the skin’s extracellular matrix (collagen, elastin, proteoglycans, fibronectin and other glycoproteins) is important to maintaining healthy and young-looking skin.
Glucosamine-New studies show topical glucosamine targets pigment overproduction
Data presented at 2006 American Academy of Dermatology Meeting uses first ever non-invasive imaging system to detect pigment changes, test glucosamine efficacy
While the debate about glucosamine's efficacy in treating arthritis pain continues, a series of studies presented at the 64th American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) meeting indicates that a topical version of the supplement has effects on skin – with the particular ability to normalize pigment overproduction in skin cells damaged by UV radiation exposure.
"While a great deal is known about glucosamine's safety profile and anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties, there have been few well-controlled studies on how these properties could be used to improve skin health," says Alexa Kimball, M.D., assistant professor of dermatology, Harvard Medical School, who supervised one of the studies presented at the AAD. " It is really gratifying to see this level of research and validation on a topical cosmetic application. These findings could impact the way dermatologists treat UV related skin damage."
Data from three studies presented at the meeting focused on a formulation including N-acetyl glucosamine, a more stable version of glucosamine. N-acetyl glucosamine is a substance that inhibits glycosylation of pro-tyrosinase – a key process in melanin overproduction in UV damaged skin cells. The in vivo and in vitro studies highlight improvements in hyperpigmentation, skin tone and barrier function. Data from the SIAscope, a non-invasive skin imaging system developed by Cambridge UK-based company Astron Clinica, enabled scientists to view the effects of the N-acetyl glucosamine complex on pigment producing cells – giving scientists the ability for the first time ever to see the distribution of melanin across an entire human face.
Glucosamine -NAG/Niacinamide Reduces Appearance of Hyperpigmentation in Vivo
Two double-blind placebo-controlled clinical studies examined the effects of N-acetyl glucosamine alone and a complex containing N-acetyl glucosamine plus niacinamide, a vitamin B derivative, which has previously been shown to be effective in reducing facial hyperpigmentation. , , The first study involved 50 Japanese women (ages 25-55) who were randomized to use either a topical placebo formulation or an N-acetyl glucosamine formulation. The second study involved 35 Caucasian women (ages 35-65) who were randomized to use either a topical formulation containing niacinamide or N-acetyl glucosamine plus niacinamide complex. Researchers concluded that N-acetyl glucosamine was more effective in reducing hyperpigmentation over the placebo and a complex of N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide were more effective in reducing hyperpigmentation than niacinamide alone.
Another study, supervised by Harvard dermatologist Dr. Kimball, 200 subjects (ages 40-60) with facial hyperpigmenation used an SPF-15 moisturizing sunscreen lotion product and a moisturizing cream. One hundred of these subjects used an SPF-15 moisturizing sunscreen lotion product and a moisturizing cream with an N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide complex and 100 subjects received the lotion and cream without the active complex. Results showed that a topical N-acetyl glucosamine plus niacinamide complex is clinically effective in reducing the appearance of facial hyperpigmented spots. Additionally, the combination was significantly effective on top of any effect provided by the SPF-15 sunscreen included in the daytime test products.
These 200 subjects underwent additional testing using the SIAscope, a technology that models and measures the interaction of light within the skin to produce full-face visual maps of melanin distribution. These maps revealed that treatment with an N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide complex resulted in a reduction in both hyper-melanized spot size and heterogeneity of melanin distribution. "This unique SIAscope technology allows us to non-invasively measure and understand biological components that comprise skin tone. It is an amazing clinical tool to help us evaluate new treatments and their ability to improve the skin," said Dr. Paul Matts, a principal scientist from P&G Beauty, a division of Procter & Gamble, and co-author of the study with Dr. Kimball.
NAG Increases Hyaluronic Acid, Water Content, Biomarkers of Healthy Skin
In this study, the effects of N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide were tested in in vitro human skin cultures, as well as a clinical facial trial of 35 to 60 year old women with moderate-severe fine lines and wrinkles. The in vitro work found that the N-acetyl glucosamine plus niacinamide complex stimulated the production of hyaluronic acid, a key component in skin's hydration, as well as increased collagen (procollagen-1) expression. In human subjects, this improved hydration of the skin reduced the appearance of facial fine lines and wrinkles, particularly in the eye area of the face. Researchers hypothesize that the improved skin tone and moisturization may come from the role that glucosamine plays in hyaluronic acid synthesis, as well as improvements in collagen structure. Used in the PCA Pigment bar from Spa Cielo
Glycolic Acid: exfoliant, used in a wide range of exfoliating products, from exfoliating lotions to chemical peels. May improve fine lines. Overuse can cause skin irritation and other skin damage.
Glycol Stearate: thickening agent that helps give products a luminescent or opalescent appearance.
Grape Seed Extract: a botanical extract shown to be an effective antioxidant
As a supplement: Grape Seed is a more powerful anti-oxidant than Vitamin C and Vitamin E in scavenging oxygen free radicals in the human body and a best natural anti aging skin care vitamin & remedy. Toxic free radicals are unstable molecules that damage cells and tissues throughout the body. Researchers are now linking free radicals to premature skin wrinkles and saging skin. Grape seeds also reinforce the structure of collagen and prevent its destruction and one the best sagging skin remedies. Collagen is the substance that makes up skin, tendons, cartilage, ligaments, and blood vessels. Grape seeds have been researched to reinforce collagen by binding and cross-linking collagen fibers. Grape seeds also enhance the ability of collagen to self-repair, therefore protecting human skin against degenerative processes and toxic skin attackers. The active ingredients polyphenols in grape seed extract are beneficial for promoting youthful looking skin because they support cellular health, elasticity, and flexibility (Shi 2003).
Some evidence suggests that Grade Seed extracts work by protecting and strengthening collagen and elastin. These proteins are found in blood vessels as well as in cartilage, tendons, skin and muscles. The net effect may be due to strengthening of blood vessels, thereby reducing leakage of fluid and blood. In addition, these beneficial effects on collagen and elastin could theoretically help normalize aging skin. In another eight-week study, researchers determined that grape seed extract also exhibited a beneficial impact on pigment imbalances in facial skin (Yamakoshi 2003). Grape seed is a potent herbal anti aging skin care vitamin
Green Tea Extract: a botanical extract shown to be an effective antioxidant
Guar gum: Plant derived polysaccharide used as a thickening agent in skin care formulations. May also increase moisture retention due to coating action.
H --Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Homosalate: UV radiation blocker used in sunscreens
Hyaluronic Acid: also referred to as a "cyclic acid"; an effective humectant/moisturizing agent.
Hydroquinone: skin pigmentation lightening agent; a maximum of 2% is sold over the counter; higher concentrations available by prescription.
I --Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Isopropyl Alcohol: vehicle with antibacterial properites; drying to the skin especially in higher concentrations.
Isopropyl Isostearate: emollient.
Isopropyl Palmitate: emollient usually derived from palm and/or coconut oil; may be comedogenic.
Isostearic Acid: fatty acid that forms a film on the skin; may be comedogenic.
J -- Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Jojoba Oil: natural oil extracted from the seeds of the desert shrub Simondsia Chinesis. Is an effective emollient and lubricant. According to some claims also a delivery enhancer.
K --Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Kaolin (China Clay): used in oil-absorbing powders and masques; highly absorbent.
Kojic Acid: skin lightener; sometimes promoted as a bleaching agent for ethnic skin.
L --Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Lactic Acid: alpha hydroxy acid used in dermatology to hydrate and smooth dry, flaking skin. May occasionally be used in high concentrations as a chemical peel.
Lanolin: emollient and moisturizer; obtained from sheep; a sensitizer like other wool derivatives, in eczema-prone individuals
Lecithin: emollient and emulsifier.
Licorice Extract: skin lightener; believed to be more potent than kojic acid.
Linoleic Acid essential fatty acid, emollient and emulsifier.
Liposomes: active ingredient delivery system; hollow spheres made from phospholipids (such as lecithin) that are up to 300 times smaller than skin cells. Liposomes are filled with active agents which they carry into the skin and then gradually release.
Lysine amino acid important for colagen sysnthesis; possibly ineffective topically for that purpose.
M -- Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate: a vitamin C derivative; more stable than vitamin C; has comparable effectiveness as collagen synthesis booster.
Methyl Gluceth: a humectant/moisturizing agent.
Methylparaben/Propylparaben: Food grade preservative. One of the most commonly used preservative in cosmetics today; nonirritating, nonsensitizing and nontoxic. May be comedogenic in susceptible persons.
Mexoryl SX: UV radiation blocker used in sunscreens (see Mexoryl SX fact-sheet)
Mineral Oil: a liquid blend of petroleum hydrocarbons obtained. An effective solvent for removing oil, grease and makeup from the skin. Comedogenic. May be drying with prolonged use. Most companies no longer use mineral oil in products; vegetable oils have been found to be as effective and more skin friendly.
Mucopolysacchaildes: safe and effective humectants.
Myristyl Myristate: emollient; an ester of myristyl alcohol and myristic acid.
N --Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
NaPCA: a humectant, Same as Sodium PCA.
Nanospheres: active ingredient delivery system; micro-reservoir particles of porous polymers that have a special structure permitting high absorption and timed release of the agents into the skin.
O -- Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Octocrylene: UV radiation blocker used in sunscreens (see octocrylene fact-sheet)
Octyl Methoxycinnamate: UV radiation blocker used in sunscreens (see octyl methoxycinnamate fact-sheet)
Octyl Palmitate: nondrying, nongreasy solvent; often used in cleansers, astringents.
Octyl Salicylate: UV radiation blocker used in sunscreens
Oxybenzone: UV radiation blocker used in sunscreens
P --Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
PABA (Para-Aminobenzoic Acid): UVB blocker used in sunscreens during the 1970's; can cause contact dermatitis, therefore is now out of favor.
Panthenol: a B vitamin (B5), works as a humectant (holds water in the skin). May promote skin healing.
Parabens: One of the most commonly used group of preservatives in cosmetics today; nonirritating and nonsensitizing. Methyl paraben may degrade releasing methanol, a potentially toxic chemical. To what degree this actualy occurs in skin care products is unclear. Various forms exist, name ending in (e.g. methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, etc.).
Petrolatum: Heavy vehicle based on petroleum hydrocarbons, most commonly known for its use in Vaseline; good for sensitive skin but is occlusive and can cause or aggravate acne in susceptible individuals.
Polybutene: helps make liquids texturally viscous.
Poly Hydroxy Acid: PHA, derived from the buds of fruit trees; is claimed to be gentler yet as effective as AHAs; still debatable.
Proline: amino acid vital to the composition and production collagen; possibly ineffective in topical products.
Propylene Glycol: vehicle for cosmetic solutions; excellent for hydrating dry skin but can act as a contact dermatitis sensitizer in susceptible individuals
Common skin care ingredients
Q -- Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Qnaternium-15 & 19: a preservative antimicrobial active against a wide spectrum of microorganisms. A quaternary ammonium salt.
Quaternary Ammonium Salts (QUATS): various derivatives in this group are used in waterproof sunscreens because of their cationic properties. QUATS chemically react with the skin, making skin surface more water resistant.
R -- Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Resveratrol: antioxidant which supports and protects collagen; may also inhibit some mechanisms of aging by modulating gene activity.
Retin A: Brand name for Tretinoin
Retinol: form of vitamin A; fat soluble; depending upon concentration, estimated to be approximately 10 times less effective than tretinoin (Retin A); relatively unstable. May irritate skin in high concentrations.
Retinal: form of vitamin A; fat soluble; less effective than tretinoin; relatively unstable. May irritate skin in high concentrations.
Retinyl Palmitate: (also known as Vitamin A Palmitate); ester of retinol combined with palmitic acid, considered a more stable alternative to retinol or retinal for normalizing the skin's texture and helping smooth out fine lines. Less irritating than retinol.
Retinyl Palmitate Polypeptide: water soluble formulation of Vitamin A.
Rose Hips: botanical extract of rose petals found to have high concentrations of vitamin C.
S -- Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Salicylic Acid: the most common BHA (beta hydroxy acid); medically used as an exfolliant and debriding agent. Cosmetically used in some chemical peels and to reduce oiliness and acne.
Selenium: A number of scientists believe this mineral plays a key role in skin cancer prevention. Taken in supplement form or used in a cream, this mineral helps protect skin from sun damage. If you do spend any time in the sun, selenium could help reduce your chance of burning.
In studies in The Journal of the American Medical Association in 1996, researchers showed that skin cancer patients who ingested 200 micrograms of selenium per day had:
* 37% fewer malignancies
* 50% reduced risk of death from skin cancer
* 17% decrease in overall mortality
In still more research published in the French journal Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed in 1991, researchers found that oral selenium as well as copper helped reduce the formation of sunburn cells in human skin.
The best dietary sources of selenium include whole-grain cereals, seafood, garlic, and eggs.
Silica: highly oil absorbant.
Silcone: protects the skin and creates a sheen. Thought to be helpful in reducing the appearnce of hypertrophic scars.
Silk Powder: incorporated into cosmetic powders to help absorb skin moisture and oils.
Silk Proteins: prevents dehydration; commonly found in eye rejuvenation creams.
Sodium Bicarbonate: neutralizes acid (raises pH), making products less irritating; commonly known as baking soda.
Sodium Borate: preservative; related to boric acid; potential irritant.
Sodium Hyaluronate: effective humectant related to Hyaluronic acid (salt form), works to moisturize the skin.
Sodium Laurel Sulfate: used in most cleansers and soaps; acts as a surfactant, offers good foaming qualities; a known skin irritant, but contrary to popular misconceptions, does not cause cancer.
Sorbic Acid: preservative; primarily protects products from yeast overgrowth.
Sorbitol: sugar-based ingredient; pulls water by osmosis from the largest source. Typically this is the air, so it helps hydrate skin. In arid conditions, however, water will be pulled out of the skin, resulting in dehydration.
Stearic Acid: fatty acid used in soap manufacturing; may cause irritation.
Sulfur: helps kill some species of bacteria on the skin improving acne, seborrhea and psoriasis. Typically found in soaps, shampoos and some topical acne medications.
T -- Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Titanium Dioxide: UV radiation blocker used in sunscreens
Triclosan: commonly used as a preservative; believed to be hypoallergenic.
Tyrosine: amino acid that may potentiate the effect of vitamin C on collagen synthesis by fibroblasts; plays a role in melanin formation.
U -- Common skin care ingredients --back to top
Unipertan: A suntan-accelerating product composed of tyrosine, riboflavin, and collagen. The original form of unipertan employs animal by-products. A number of derivatives and variations of the original unipertan exist, generally designated by letters or numbers. None of the unipertans protect from UV rays or make tanning safe.
Unipertan V-242: A totally vegetable form of unipertan, providing tyrosine (an amino acid essential to the tanning process) and adenosine triphosphate (a vegetable catalyst to the tanning process), in a vegetable collagen base.
V-- Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Vitamin A: important for skin renewal; may improve skin texture and fine lines; may improve acne. Less effective and less irritating than tretinoin. Causes sun sensitivity and not to be used if pregnant or nursing.
As a supplement Vitamin A. If your vitamin A levels are up to snuff from the foods you eat, adding more probably won't do much more for your skin. That said, if those levels drop even a little below normal, you're likely to see some skin-related symptoms, including a dry, flaky complexion. That's because vitamin A is necessary for the maintenance and repair of skin tissue. Without it, you'll notice the difference. Fruits and vegetables are loaded with vitamin A.
Topical vitamin A (Retin-A) is the form that makes a real difference in your skin. Medical studies show a reduction in lines and wrinkles, good acne control, and some psoriasis relief, all from using creams containing this nutrient. For example, in research presented at the Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology in 2003, researchers from France showed that topically applied retinol plus vitamin C demonstrated a "reversal of skin alterations induced by chronologic aging and photoaging."
In another study published in the British Journal of Dermatology, doctors found that foods high in beta-cartotene -- a form of vitamin A -- appeared to reduce the risk of psoriasis.
The prescription treatment for acne called Retin-A is derived from vitamin A. The less potent, over-the-counter formulations are sold as retinols and used as anti-aging treatments.
As a supplement Vitamin B Complex. When it comes to skin, the single most important B vitamin is biotin, a nutrient that forms the basis of skin, nail, and hair cells. Without adequate amounts, you may end up with dermatitis (an itchy, scaly skin reaction) or sometimes even hair loss. Even a mild deficiency causes symptoms.
Most people get enough biotin without even trying. It's found in many foods including bananas, eggs, oatmeal, and rice, plus your body also makes some biotin on its own.
But recently, greater attention is being paid to topical preparations containing B vitamins. These creams can help give skin an almost instant healthy glow while hydrating cells and increasing overall tone. Niacin, a specific B vitamin, helps skin retain moisture, so creams containing this nutrient can help your complexion look plumper and younger in as little as six days. Niacin also has anti-inflammatory properties to soothe dry, irritated skin. In higher concentrations it can also work as a lightening agent to even out blotchy skin tone.
In one study presented at the Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology in 2003, a topical form of vitamin B was shown to dramatically improve aging in human skin.
Vitamin C: (L-ascorbic acid) boosts collagen synthesis by fibroblasts; vital water soluble antioxidant both systemically as and topically. Unstable in solution when exposed to air.
As a supplement Vitamins C and E. Among the most important new dermatologic discoveries is the power of vitamins to counter the effects of sun exposure.
In research presented at the 2002 Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology, Duke University researcher Sheldon Pinnell and colleagues demonstrated that "appreciable photoprotection can be obtained from topical vitamins C and E."
"Topical Vitamin C can prevent the consequences of prolonged sun exposure which can lead to skin cancer," says Karen E. Burke, MD, in a news release. "Supplementation with natural Vitamin E in 400 mg per day has been noted to reduce photodamage, wrinkles and improve skin texture."
This research has been backed up by a more recent study. The Journal of Investigative Dermatology reported in February 2005 that people who take vitamins C and E in the long term reduced their sunburns from exposure to UVB radiation. Further, researchers saw a reduction of factors linked to DNA damage within skin cells, leading them to conclude that antioxidant vitamins help protect against DNA damage.
Vitamin C and E help by reducing the damage caused by free radicals, a harmful byproduct of sunlight, smoke, and pollution. Free radicals gobble up collagen and elastin, the fibers that support skin structure, causing wrinkles and other signs of aging. When these two vitamins are combined in a lotion, they can be highly protective against sun damage, says the American Academy of Dermatology.
This doesn't mean you can gobble vitamins or lather on lotion, then bake safely in the sun. The link between tanning and skin cancer is indisputable and dangerous. (Always wear a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 25 and limit your sun exposure between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m.) But you may be able to help your skin stay healthier and supple by making sure you get enough of these antioxidant vitamins.
To make sure your diet includes plenty of vitamin C, eat citrus fruits and vegetables rich in vitamin C such as bell peppers, broccoli, cauliflower, and leafy greens. These foods can replace the loss of the vitamin through the skin. You can also take vitamin C supplements, up to 1,000 to 2,000 milligrams of per day, according to the American Academy of Dermatology.
Vitamin D: regulates cell turn over; prescription derivatives of vitamin D are used to treat psoriasis (Dovonex).
Vitamin E: (Tocopherol) an oil soluble antioxidant widely used in skin care; also an emollient.
W -- Common skin care ingredients --back to top
Water: Most frequently listed main ingredient in skin care products, used in its purest form, void of minerals and other chemicals, hence the various names like distilled, deionized, purified, etc.
Witch Hazel: botanical with astringent properties, helps remove excess surface skin oils.
X -- Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Xanthan Gum: thickening agent.
Y -- Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Yeast Extract: extract from brewer's yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) containing a complex mixture of proteins, sugars, vitamins, amino acids, etc. According to some claims may enhance the rate of renewal (cell turnover) of the skin.
Z -- Common skin care ingredients -- back to top
Zinc: The third skin-friendly mineral is zinc, important if you have acne. In fact, sometimes acne itself is a symptom of a zinc deficiency. Taken internally or used topically, zinc works to clear skin by taming oil production and may be effective in controlling the formation of acne lesions or help those already on your skin to clear sooner. Food sources of zinc include oysters, lean meat, and poultry.
Zinc Oxide A compound of zinc and oxygen, zinc oxide is a mild antiseptic and anti-irritant. When added to sunscreens, it physically prevents UV light from reaching the skin. It is also the key active ingredients in diaper rash creams.